Raised garden beds can grow nearly any annual vegetable, but some plants make better use of the limited space than others.

Leafy greens, radishes, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, bush beans and culinary herbs are among the most productive choices. Trellised cucumbers and peas also perform well because they use vertical space instead of spreading across the bed.

The best plants for a raised garden bed share several characteristics:

• They produce a useful harvest in a small area
• Their roots fit the available soil depth
• They respond well to loose, well-drained soil
• They can be reached without stepping into the bed
• Their sunlight and watering needs match neighboring plants
• They are suitable for the local growing season

This guide covers 25 vegetables, herbs and flowers that work especially well in raised beds, along with practical layout and planting advice.

Quick Guide to the Best Raised Bed Plants

These depths are practical raised-bed recommendations. Plants growing in open-bottom beds may also extend roots into the native soil below.

18 Best Vegetables for Raised Garden Beds

1. Lettuce

Lettuce is one of the easiest and most productive raised-bed vegetables. It grows quickly, has relatively shallow roots and can be harvested at several stages.

You can grow:

• Loose-leaf lettuce
• Romaine
• Butterhead
• Oakleaf
• Baby lettuce mixes
• Miniature head lettuce

Harvest outer leaves while leaving the center intact, or cut the whole plant when it reaches the desired size.

Lettuce prefers cool conditions and may become bitter or produce a flower stalk during hot weather. Grow it in spring and fall, or give it light afternoon shade during warm periods.

For a continuous harvest, sow a small amount every one to two weeks rather than planting the entire seed packet at once.

2. Spinach

Spinach is another compact cool-season crop suited to raised beds.

It germinates best in cool soil and grows rapidly when temperatures are moderate. Because spinach has a relatively short harvest period, it can be planted before summer vegetables need the space.

For example, grow spinach in early spring, harvest it, and replace it with peppers, cucumbers or bush beans.

Keep the soil evenly moist and harvest young leaves regularly. Spinach may bolt quickly when days become long and temperatures rise.

3. Kale

Kale produces a large harvest from a relatively small number of plants. Instead of harvesting the whole plant, remove mature outer leaves and allow the center to continue growing.

Compact varieties work best in small beds. Large kale plants can shade neighboring seedlings, so give them sufficient spacing.

Kale tolerates cool weather and may continue producing after light frosts. It can be grown as a spring crop, a fall crop or, in some climates, through much of the winter.

Inspect the undersides of leaves for caterpillars and eggs, particularly when other cabbage-family crops are grown nearby.

4. Swiss Chard

Swiss chard is an excellent raised-bed crop because it remains productive over a long season.

It tolerates warmer conditions better than spinach and provides repeated harvests. Cut the outer leaves near the base while allowing new leaves to grow from the center.

Colorful varieties also add ornamental value. Red, yellow, pink and orange stems can make a vegetable bed look more decorative without sacrificing productivity.

Mature plants become fairly large, so avoid planting them too closely.

5. Radishes

Radishes are ideal for filling temporary gaps between slower-growing vegetables.

Many small varieties mature quickly, allowing gardeners to harvest them before nearby tomatoes, peppers or broccoli need the space.

Radishes prefer:

• Loose soil
• Cool temperatures
• Even moisture
• Consistent spacing
• Moderate fertility

Excessive nitrogen may produce large leaves and small roots. Hot weather and moisture stress can make roots woody, pithy or strongly flavored.

Long daikon varieties need much deeper, stone-free soil than small round radishes.

6. Carrots

Raised beds are especially useful for carrots because the soil can be kept loose and relatively free from stones.

Compacted soil, rocks and hard clumps may cause roots to fork or become misshapen. The ideal depth depends on the variety:

• Round carrots: approximately 8 inches
• Short carrots: 8–10 inches
• Standard carrots: 10–12 inches
• Long carrots: 12–18 inches

Keep the surface consistently moist during germination. Carrot seedlings emerge slowly and may struggle if a dry crust forms over the soil.

Thin seedlings according to the variety’s recommended spacing. Crowded carrots usually remain small.

7. Beets

Beets provide two edible harvests: roots and leaves.

Young beet greens can be harvested carefully without removing every leaf from the plant. The roots develop best in loose soil with steady moisture.

Like carrots, beets need adequate spacing. Each wrinkled beet “seed” may contain more than one embryo, so several seedlings can emerge from the same location.

Thin crowded seedlings and use the young leaves in salads or cooked dishes.

8. Onions

Onions fit well into raised beds because their upright leaves take up little horizontal space.

Possible choices include:

• Green onions
• Bunching onions
• Bulb onions
• Shallots
• Garlic

Green onions can be harvested relatively quickly and planted along bed edges. Bulb onions require a longer season and should be selected according to local day-length requirements.

Onions have relatively shallow root systems, so they need regular moisture and should not be overwhelmed by larger neighboring plants.

9. Bush Beans

Bush beans are among the easiest warm-season vegetables for beginners.

They generally do not require a trellis and produce a concentrated harvest from compact plants. Sow seeds directly after the soil has warmed, because bean seeds may rot in cold, wet soil.

Picking pods regularly encourages continued production during the plant’s harvest period.

For a longer harvest, sow a new group every two or three weeks. Some gardeners continue succession sowing bush beans through midsummer, depending on the length of the local growing season.

Pole beans produce for a longer period but require a tall, sturdy trellis.

10. Peas

Peas are a productive choice for spring and fall raised beds.

Types include:

• Snow peas
• Snap peas
• Shelling peas

Install the trellis before or immediately after planting so you do not damage established roots later.

Place the trellis along the north side of the bed in the Northern Hemisphere when practical. This helps reduce unwanted shading of shorter plants.

Once pea production ends, remove the plants and use the space for a warm-season crop.

11. Tomatoes

Tomatoes are one of the most popular raised-bed vegetables, but they need more space than many beginners expect.

Choose between:

• Determinate tomatoes
• Indeterminate tomatoes
• Dwarf tomatoes
• Patio tomatoes
• Cherry tomatoes

Determinate plants grow to a more limited size and produce much of their crop over a shorter period. Indeterminate plants continue growing and producing until frost or disease stops them.

Most tomatoes need:

• At least 12 inches of quality soil
• Full sun
• Consistent moisture
• A strong cage, stake or trellis
• Good airflow
• Adequate spacing

Install supports at planting time. An unsupported tomato can cover much of a small raised bed and shade surrounding crops.

Avoid placing too many tomatoes in one bed. Crowding reduces airflow and makes pruning, harvesting and pest inspection more difficult.

12. Peppers

Pepper plants have a compact, upright growth habit that works well in raised beds.

Popular choices include:

• Bell peppers
• Jalapeños
• Serrano peppers
• Banana peppers
• Shishito peppers
• Small sweet peppers

Peppers prefer warm soil and should be planted after the danger of frost has passed. In cool climates, raised beds may offer an advantage because the soil warms relatively quickly in spring.

Large plants carrying heavy fruit may need small stakes or cages.

Keep moisture reasonably consistent. Severe drying followed by heavy watering can stress the plants and interfere with fruit development.

13. Eggplants

Eggplants grow under conditions similar to peppers and tomatoes. They need warm weather, full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.

Compact varieties are especially useful for small raised beds. Large-fruited plants may need staking to prevent branches from breaking.

Avoid planting eggplants too early. Cold soil and chilly nights can slow growth significantly.

Watch for flea beetles, which may create numerous small holes in young leaves.

14. Cucumbers

Cucumbers can take over a bed when allowed to spread across the soil. Growing them vertically makes much better use of limited space.

Benefits of trellising cucumbers include:

• More open planting space
• Improved airflow
• Easier harvesting
• Straighter fruit
• Better visibility when checking for pests
• Less fruit resting on wet soil

Place the trellis on the side of the bed where it will create the least unwanted shade.

Choose compact, patio or climbing varieties based on the available space. Not every bush cucumber requires a trellis, but vining cultivars usually benefit from one.

15. Zucchini

Zucchini can produce an impressive harvest, but a mature plant may become several feet wide.

One plant is often enough for a small household. Position it near a corner or edge so the leaves can extend partly outside the frame without shading the entire bed.

Compact varieties are better for limited spaces.

Harvest fruits while they are relatively young and tender. Check plants frequently because zucchini can grow rapidly in warm weather.

If space is extremely limited, cucumbers, peppers or bush beans may provide more harvest per square foot.

16. Broccoli

Broccoli grows well in the loose, fertile soil of a raised bed, but each plant needs substantial space.

It performs best during cool weather. Spring crops should mature before intense heat, while fall broccoli must be planted early enough to develop before severe cold.

After harvesting the main head, many varieties produce smaller side shoots. Leave healthy plants in place if you want these additional harvests.

Protect young plants from caterpillars and other cabbage-family pests.

17. Cabbage

Cabbage is suitable for raised beds but should not be crowded. The mature heads and outer leaves can occupy considerable space.

Small or early-maturing varieties are usually a better choice for compact gardens than very large storage cabbages.

Consistent moisture helps heads develop properly. Irregular watering after dry conditions may contribute to splitting in mature heads.

Because cabbage, broccoli, kale and other brassicas share several pests and diseases, avoid growing the same plant family in the same small bed every season when multiple beds make rotation possible.

University of Minnesota Extension notes that separate raised beds can make crop rotation easier and may help with the management of some diseases and overwintering insects. University of Minnesota Extension

18. Potatoes

Potatoes can grow in raised beds, particularly deeper beds that provide room for planting and hilling.

However, potatoes occupy the bed for a substantial part of the season. Harvesting also disturbs a large amount of soil, so they may not be the most efficient choice for every small garden.

Use a bed approximately 18 to 24 inches deep if you want room to add soil around the stems as they grow.

Always use certified disease-free seed potatoes rather than potatoes of uncertain origin. Avoid planting potatoes where tomatoes, peppers or eggplants recently grew because these crops belong to the same plant family and may share certain diseases.

5 Best Herbs for Raised Garden Beds

19. Basil

Basil is a warm-season herb that grows well near tomatoes, peppers and eggplants because they prefer similar sunlight, temperature and watering conditions.

Begin harvesting by pinching stems above a pair of leaves. Regular pruning encourages branching and delays flowering.

Do not harvest only individual lower leaves while allowing one tall stem to develop. Cutting the stem properly creates a fuller, more productive plant.

Basil is sensitive to frost and cold temperatures.

20. Parsley

Parsley grows well along raised-bed edges and can remain productive for an extended period.

Both flat-leaf and curly parsley are suitable. Harvest outer stems near the base rather than cutting only the leaf tips.

Parsley is a biennial but is usually grown as an annual culinary herb. It may survive mild winters and produce flowers during its second year.

Seeds can germinate slowly, so keep the seedbed evenly moist.

21. Cilantro

Cilantro is best treated as a fast-growing cool-season crop.

Warm temperatures and long days cause it to bolt quickly. Instead of planting one large crop, sow small amounts every two or three weeks during suitable weather.

When plants flower, they can provide resources for small beneficial insects. The mature seeds are coriander.

Choose slower-bolting varieties and provide some afternoon shade as temperatures rise.

22. Chives

Chives are compact perennial herbs that fit easily along bed edges.

Their narrow leaves do not cast much shade, and the flowers can attract pollinating insects. Remove flowers before seeds mature if you do not want volunteer seedlings.

Because chives return each year in many climates, decide whether you want a permanent plant in a bed otherwise used for annual crop rotation.

Dividing established clumps periodically can prevent overcrowding.

23. Thyme

Thyme is a low-growing herb that prefers excellent drainage and does not need the same moisture level as lettuce or cucumbers.

Place thyme near a dry edge of the bed rather than directly beside plants that require frequent watering.

Avoid planting it where large vegetables will completely shade it. Thyme usually performs best in full sun and relatively lean, well-drained soil.

Other Mediterranean herbs, such as rosemary, oregano and sage, may also be grown in raised beds, but grouping them in a separate, drier section simplifies watering.

2 Best Flowers for Raised Vegetable Beds

24. Marigolds

Marigolds add color and floral diversity without requiring much space.

Compact French marigolds can be planted along bed edges or in small gaps. Their flowers provide resources for various visiting insects, and their roots may help manage certain soil nematodes under specific conditions and when appropriate cultivars and planting methods are used.

However, marigolds do not create a universal pest barrier. Planting one marigold beside a tomato will not automatically repel every insect, rabbit or disease.

Grow them primarily for:

• Color
• Floral diversity
• Pollinator resources
• Bed-edge planting
• Seasonal interest

Choose compact varieties so they do not compete heavily with vegetables.

25. Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums produce colorful edible flowers and leaves and can trail attractively over the side of a raised bed.

They usually perform best without excessive fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can produce abundant leaves but relatively few flowers.

Trailing varieties may spread widely, while compact varieties stay more controlled. Position vigorous plants near a corner where stems can grow outside the bed.

Nasturtiums may attract aphids, so inspect them rather than assuming they will protect other plants automatically.

How to Choose Plants for a Raised Garden Bed

Start With What You Eat

A plant is not a good use of limited garden space if nobody in the household wants to eat it.

Begin with vegetables and herbs that:

• Your household uses regularly
• Taste better when freshly harvested
• Are expensive at local stores
• Produce over an extended period
• Can be harvested at several stages
• Suit the local climate

University of Maryland Extension lists bush beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, summer squash and leafy greens among the easier vegetables for beginning gardeners. University of Maryland Extension

Match Plants to the Season

Vegetables are commonly divided into cool-season and warm-season crops.

Cool-Season Crops

These generally prefer spring and fall:

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Kale
• Radishes
• Carrots
• Beets
• Peas
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cilantro
• Onions

Warm-Season Crops

These are normally planted after frost danger has passed:

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplants
• Cucumbers
• Zucchini
• Bush beans
• Basil
• Marigolds
• Nasturtiums

Planting time varies by region. Use local frost dates, soil temperature and regional extension guidance rather than following one nationwide calendar.

University of Minnesota Extension advises planting cool-season vegetables early while waiting until after frost danger before transplanting tender crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash and basil. University of Minnesota Extension

Consider the Bed’s Soil Depth

Shallow beds are best for:

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Radishes
• Green onions
• Small herbs

Beds with 10 to 12 inches of usable soil can support most annual vegetables, particularly when plants can root into the native soil underneath.

Use 12 to 18 inches for larger fruiting crops and long root vegetables. Potatoes and some perennial crops benefit from 18 to 24 inches.

Raised beds installed on concrete require more contained soil depth because roots cannot grow into the ground. University of Maryland Extension recommends at least eight inches for greens, beans and cucumbers on hard surfaces, with 12 to 24 inches for peppers, tomatoes and squash. University of Maryland Extension

Check Sunlight Before Planting

Most vegetables perform best with at least six hours of direct sunlight. Fruiting crops generally benefit from eight or more hours when local temperatures allow.

Full-sun crops include:

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplants
• Cucumbers
• Beans
• Squash
• Melons

Leafy vegetables can tolerate somewhat less direct sun:

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Kale
• Chard
• Parsley
• Cilantro

Partial shade does not mean complete shade. Even leafy vegetables need sufficient light to produce healthy growth.

Group Plants With Similar Water Needs

Do not place drought-tolerant thyme and moisture-loving lettuce on the same irrigation line unless you can control water delivery separately.

Useful watering groups include:

Regular moisture

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Cucumbers
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Onions

Moderate, consistent moisture

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplants
• Beans
• Carrots
• Beets

Drier conditions after establishment

• Thyme
• Oregano
• Sage
• Rosemary

Oregon State University Extension recommends grouping vegetables according to their water needs so drought-tolerant plants and thirstier crops can be irrigated appropriately. Oregon State University Extension

How to Arrange Plants in a Raised Bed

Place Tall Plants Where They Will Not Block Sun

In the Northern Hemisphere, place trellises and tall crops toward the north side of the bed when possible.

Tall plants include:

• Indeterminate tomatoes
• Pole beans
• Peas
• Trellised cucumbers
• Okra
• Corn
• Sunflowers

Short plants can be positioned toward the south-facing edge.

Garden orientation, nearby structures and the direction of afternoon sun may require adjustments.

Use Vertical Space

A trellis makes cucumbers, peas and pole beans more suitable for small raised beds.

Vertical growing can:

• Free planting space
• Improve airflow
• Keep fruit away from the soil
• Make harvesting easier
• Create light shade for greens
• Improve visibility during pest inspections

Install supports before vines become large.

Keep Large Plants Near Corners

Plants such as zucchini and nasturtiums can be positioned near corners so part of their foliage extends outside the frame.

This prevents one plant from covering the entire bed.

Do not block paths or create a tripping hazard.

Plant Quick Crops Between Slow Crops

Radishes and baby lettuce can grow in open spaces before tomatoes, peppers, cabbage or broccoli reach full size.

This practice is called intercropping. It works only when the quick crop is harvested before competition becomes severe.

Do not judge spacing by the size of a new transplant. Plan for each plant’s mature width.

Three Sample 4 × 8-Foot Raised Bed Plans

Exact spacing should follow the seed packet or cultivar instructions.

Plan 1: Beginner Summer Vegetable Bed

North side:

• Two trellised cucumber plants

Center:

• Two pepper plants
• Two compact eggplants

South side:

• Bush beans
• Basil
• Green onions

Corners:

• One compact marigold in each of two corners

This combination uses vertical space while keeping shorter plants in front.

Plan 2: Tomato and Salad Bed

North side:

• Two staked or caged tomato plants

Center:

• Two or three basil plants
• Green onions

South side:

• Leaf lettuce
• Radishes

Harvest the lettuce and radishes before the tomatoes expand and shade the bed.

Do not add additional large tomatoes simply because the bed looks empty at planting time.

Plan 3: Cool-Season Bed

North side:

• Trellised peas

Center:

• Kale or Swiss chard
• Beets

South side:

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Radishes
• Cilantro

After harvesting spring crops, replant the bed with warm-season vegetables. In late summer, remove declining summer crops and sow suitable fall vegetables.

Succession Planting in Raised Beds

Succession planting helps produce more food from a limited area.

It can mean:

1. Sowing the same crop several times.
2. Replacing a harvested crop with another vegetable.
3. Growing a quick crop beside a slower crop.
4. Planting varieties with different maturity dates.

Examples include:

• Sow radishes every one or two weeks.
• Sow bush beans every two or three weeks.
• Replace spring spinach with peppers.
• Replace peas with cucumbers.
• Replace early lettuce with bush beans.
• Plant fall carrots after summer onions.
• Sow fall greens after removing declining cucumbers.

University of Maryland Extension recommends dividing the available area and planting small portions of crops such as greens, beans and cucumbers at intervals of about two weeks for a more continuous harvest. University of Maryland Extension

Before planting a second crop, count backward from the expected first frost using the variety’s days to maturity. Add extra time because plants grow more slowly as days become shorter and cooler.

Does Companion Planting Work in Raised Beds?

Companion planting can be useful when it is based on practical garden design rather than unsupported promises.

Reliable strategies include:

• Grouping plants with similar water needs
• Placing tall crops where they provide intentional shade
• Adding flowers that provide nectar and pollen
• Using quick crops before slow crops fill the space
• Rotating plant families between beds
• Growing vines vertically
• Avoiding plants that compete heavily for space

Be cautious with claims that one plant automatically repels all pests or dramatically improves the flavor of another vegetable.

Marigolds, basil and nasturtiums can be useful garden plants, but they do not replace crop rotation, physical barriers, pest identification, sanitation or regular inspection.

Plants That May Not Be Ideal for Small Raised Beds

These plants can grow in raised beds, but they may not use limited space efficiently.

Mint

Mint spreads through underground stems and can become difficult to remove. Keep it in a separate container unless the entire bed is dedicated to mint.

Pumpkins and Large Melons

Their vines can extend many feet and quickly overwhelm a small garden. Grow them near an edge where vines can be directed outward or choose compact varieties.

Sweet Corn

Corn occupies substantial space and is wind-pollinated. It generally produces better ears when planted in blocks rather than one short row, making it less efficient in a single small bed.

Asparagus

Asparagus is a long-lived perennial that needs a permanent location. Do not mix it casually into a bed that will be replanted and rotated every season.

Rhubarb

A mature rhubarb plant becomes very large and may occupy several square feet for many years. The University of Minnesota notes that one large plant can often provide enough for a household. University of Minnesota Extension

Only rhubarb stalks are eaten; the leaves should not be consumed.

Raspberries and Blackberries

These perennial plants spread, produce large root systems and require long-term support and pruning. A dedicated bed or separate row is usually more practical.

Large Shrubs and Fruit Trees

Standard fruit trees and large shrubs need much more permanent root volume than an ordinary vegetable bed provides. Use an appropriate container variety or a dedicated landscape planting area instead.

Common Raised Bed Planting Mistakes

Planting Too Many Large Vegetables

A newly planted bed may appear empty, but tomatoes, squash and cucumbers grow rapidly.

Follow mature spacing rather than filling every visible gap with another transplant.

University of Maryland Extension warns that excessive crowding can cause plant-health problems and reduce yield, even when deep, fertile soil allows somewhat closer spacing. University of Maryland Extension

Ignoring Mature Plant Height

Tall tomatoes or trellised beans can shade peppers, herbs and root crops. Plan the height of the mature garden before planting.

Mixing Plants With Opposite Water Needs

Moisture-loving lettuce and drought-tolerant rosemary are difficult to manage on the same irrigation schedule.

Planting Warm-Season Crops Too Early

Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, basil and cucumbers may be damaged or severely slowed by cold soil and frost.

Forgetting to Install Supports

Trying to force a trellis into a bed after roots have spread can damage plants. Install cages, stakes and trellises early.

Planting Only One Time

A large planting of lettuce or radishes may mature all at once. Smaller succession plantings create a more manageable harvest.

Failing to Rotate Crop Families

Growing tomatoes in the same bed year after year may allow certain soilborne problems to accumulate. Rotate plant families when multiple beds or growing areas are available.

Letting Perennials Take Over Annual Beds

Mint, asparagus, rhubarb and some perennial herbs complicate annual soil preparation and crop rotation. Give permanent crops their own space.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the easiest vegetables to grow in a raised bed?

Lettuce, radishes, bush beans, Swiss chard, peppers, cherry tomatoes and cucumbers are good choices for beginners.

What should I plant first in a new raised bed?

Start with crops you regularly eat and that suit the current season. Lettuce, radishes and bush beans are relatively easy direct-sown choices, while tomatoes and peppers are commonly planted as transplants.

How many plants can I put in a 4 × 8 raised bed?

The number depends on the crops. A bed may hold dozens of radishes or lettuce plants but only a few mature tomatoes or zucchini plants. Follow mature spacing recommendations rather than using one plant-count rule.

Can I plant tomatoes and peppers in the same raised bed?

Yes. They prefer similar sunlight, soil and watering conditions. Give each plant adequate spacing and be aware that they belong to the same plant family and share some pests and diseases.

Can I grow flowers with vegetables?

Yes. Compact flowers such as marigolds and nasturtiums can add color and provide resources for visiting insects. Do not allow flowers to overcrowd the vegetables.

Can I plant vegetables closer together in a raised bed?

Spacing may sometimes be reduced because raised-bed soil is loose and fertile, but plants still need light, airflow, water and root space. Excessive crowding can reduce yields and increase disease problems.

What can grow in a six-inch-deep raised bed?

Lettuce, spinach, baby greens, small radishes, green onions and some shallow-rooted herbs can grow in approximately six inches of soil, especially when the bed is open to good native soil below.

What can grow in a 12-inch raised bed?

Most annual vegetables can grow in a 12-inch open-bottom bed, including peppers, beans, cucumbers, greens, beets and compact tomatoes.

Can I grow vegetables in a raised bed on concrete?

Yes, but provide sufficient soil depth and unobstructed drainage. Shallow greens may grow in eight inches, while tomatoes, peppers and squash benefit from 12 to 24 inches.

What grows well along the edge of a raised bed?

Green onions, leaf lettuce, radishes, chives, parsley, thyme, compact marigolds and trailing nasturtiums are useful edge plants.

What vegetables should not be planted next to each other?

Most popular “never plant these together” lists are oversimplified. Focus on mature size, shade, root competition, water needs and crop-family rotation. Do not combine plants simply because a chart claims they are companions.

Can I use the same raised bed all year?

In many climates, yes. Grow cool-season vegetables in spring and fall and warm-season crops in summer. In colder regions, row covers or cold frames may extend the growing season.

Final Thoughts

The best raised-bed plants are productive, manageable and suited to the available space.

Beginners can start with lettuce, radishes, bush beans, peppers, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and basil. Add carrots and beets to take advantage of loose soil, use trellises for climbing crops, and grow compact flowers around the edges.

Before planting, consider the mature size of each crop, not the size of the seedling. Group plants with similar water and sunlight needs, keep tall crops from shading shorter ones and use succession planting to replace harvested vegetables.

A raised bed does not need to contain every vegetable at once. A smaller number of well-spaced, carefully selected plants will usually produce a healthier and more useful harvest than an overcrowded garden.